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Dragging both hands to stay in the barrel as long as possible, I found myself too deep. With full force I fell on my back on the board in what felt like I just jumped from a two story building onto cement.
As I fell in the barrel, I expected the same thrashing that you’d expect. The first thing I noticed was the air forcefully being pushed out of my lungs and the most excruciating pain in my lower back.
Luckily, Trevor Carlson was by my side and his training from being a lifeguard and EMT for five years is what saved me for the next three days.
Trevor took control of all the medical situations there and even told the so-called ‘doctors’ what to do in this situation until we got to the medevac team.” Trevor Carlson: “When I first got to Keoki we were a couple hundred feet from shore.
Not long, a three-foot (Hawaiian size) double-up popped on the horizon and I knew it was mine.